Saturday 23 June 2018

Visiting Eastern Island


As soon as we arrived on Eastern Island, we could appreciate Mataveri Airport, a mix of rustic and modern construction. We were welcomed by a local group playing some traditional songs. After we picked up our backpacks, we went directly to our couchsurfing host's house and then to rent a scooter to be able to roam around the island during the three days we wanted to spend on the island.

After we had lunch, which by the way was a spectacular fish and octopus barbecue prepared by our host Manuel, we went to watch the sunset at Tahai, which is an archaeological site where we had our first contact with Moais Statues. After the sunset we had a rest because our plans for that night were to go fishing. It is good to point out that our host is a big enthusiast of spear fishing. In the end, however we gave up, as it was too cold for us to go underwater, so we ended up just enjoying a beautiful sky full of stars.



The second day on the island was a Sunday, therefore we took the chance to participate in the celebration of a mass in Rapa Nui, which is the language spoken by the original inhabitants of that island. Since the mass was celebrated in a mix of Spanish and Rapa Nui, we were able to understand most of it. We felt like in Paraguay, where sometimes the mass is celebrated in a mix of Guaraní and Spanish.


After the mass we went to Hanga Roa, which offers a panoramic view of the island. Later, we went to Rano Kau volcano and Orongo archaeological site. There, we saw some of the houses where the first inhabitants lived; we also learnt about the "birdman" ceremony as well, which was celebrated every July.

The ceremony consisted of a race where participants have swim to a nearby island and back.


Later on, we went to try the famous tuna empanadas that are made on the island and for lunch it was fish on the grill again!


In the afternoon we went to Haunga volcano, from where it is possible to see one of the most famous beaches on the island called Ovahe. After that we went to Anakena beach, to  appreciate the moais Ahu Nau Nau and Ahu Hure Huke and enjoy the beach, of course.


For our last day we had something special to do which was to watch the sunrise at Ahu Tongariki moai site. It was definitely worth the effort!! We went to Rano Raraku volcano, where we could appreciate the view of the lake in the former crater. Nearby we saw many moais, giant statues, some lying down, some almost intact and others crumbling in pieces, etc. It is believed that moais were made in this place.


During the afternoon we went to Ahu Akahanga and Ahu Tahai again, this time to visit the places in sunlight. To finish our visit to this mystic Island in great style, we went to Pea Beach to watch our last sunset there. After some roaming around Hanga Roa Town, we finally went to the airport to wait for our flight to our next stop, Oceania! 



Thursday 7 June 2018

3 days in Santiago


Our first "encounter" with Chile was during the flight, while crossing the Andes Range, on the horizon we could see the mountains covered with snow. For us who had never seen snow before, it was very exciting; a landscape completely different from what we were used to.



We had 3 full days to visit Santiago de Chile, so we chose to focus on the capital solely and forget the nearby attractions, such as the wineries, Valparaiso, Viña del mar or the ski resorts.



On the first day we went to Bellavista which is a neighbourhood full of graffiti, restaurant and bars where you can grab some finger foods or drink a couple of beers. We could see many workers enjoying happy hour promotions in many bars. In the same neighbourhood we went to "La Chascona", one of the houses in which Pablo Neruda lived.





















Our next stop was Baquedano square, which is a very special place where soccer fans celebrate . We enjoyed our delicious tereré there until lunch time. For lunch, we chose to go to "La Fuente Alemana" which is a very traditional place, something similar to "Lido Bar" in Asuncion. We had a pork sandwich called "lomito completo"! To give you an idea about its size, let me just say we could only finish one each.
  
In the afternoon, we decided to first visit the Museum of Fine Arts and then go to the Central Market. Although we are not art lovers, we found the first one very interesting, however, the second one was very disappointing. We had been expecting a place full of colours, aromas and flavours. In other words, a place full of life. However, what we found was a very touristy place with plenty of restaurants fighting for tourists and few stands selling fish and seafood.

To finish the day we went to "La Piojera" Bar which has been open since 1896 and became even more famous in 1922 when, according to a legend, the former President Don Arturo Alessandri Palma said something like "So you brought me to this lice nest"  after the director of the Investigation Police suggested going to a place where ordinary people go.
  
At the bar, we have enjoyed a "terremoto", a drink the place is famous for and yes, we can say that the place is a "lice nest" ;-) Highly recommended!!!






















We started our second day with a visit to the Museum of Memory and Human Rights, a very interesting place established in order to never forget what Chilean people had suffered under Pinochet's dictatorship.

Later we went to "Quinta Normal" a very big park where the National Museum, the Railway Museum and the medical college of the "Universidad de Chile" are located.





















After enjoying a good tereré, we had lunch at de la Vega Market, a suggestion of our Couchsurfing hosts Rodrigo and Daniela, the place was a pleasant surprise, after all we finally found a true market frequented by locals! Aside from enjoying the market itself, we had the chance to try some from Chilean dishes. We got "pastel de choclo", Delicious!




Finally, we went to Santa Lucia Hill, where we could see the city from above, plus it was a good spot to watch the sunset.





















For the last day we scheduled a guided tour to "Palacio de la Moneda", which is the President's office. During the visit we could learn a bit about the place, its history and visit some rooms, plus see the coins made for every president. Nearby the palace we saw the changing of the guards ceremony  and a flag-raising ceremony of the bicentennial flag as well.

























Later on we went to visit the " Centro Cultural Palacio La Moneda", a kind of museum with different subjects, always very interesting. At the time of our visit there was an exhibition of Egyptian mummies.




After lunch, we went to one more museum, called the National History Museum. The museum shows Chilean history through many objects, including weapons and indigenous objects. Later, we went to check out San Cristobal Hill. We had two options available: we could take a cable car and pay the return ticket or just walk uphill for free. Of course we chose the latter. At last, after almost two hours of walking, we were rewarded with amazing views from the top and a drink called "mote con huesillos", which was very tasteful regardless its aspect.




After one more sunset, we gave up walking the whole way down, and eventually took the cable car, paying half the price of the ticket.





















By the end of the day, we said bye to Santiago with a great barbecue and a couple of beers at Rodrigo and Daniela's house. The following day we departed to Eastern Island!